I can’t begin to tell you how many chicken carcasses I’ve had to debone, quarter, manchonner (to cut the end knuckles and trim the meat from the drumsticks and wings), skin and truss in the past two weeks.
Our focus for these last few classes in Level I has been on a cooking methods. We learned about the extraction method. Extraction cooking methods include, poaching, simmering and braising. When cooking in this method it is best to start out with the item and the medium it is going to be cooked in cold. This allows the natural juices to come out and flavor the cooking liquid. The liquid that the meat is cooked is then can be strained and made into a full flavored sauce.
We prepared two classic dishes under Chef’s (our regular Chef was in the kitchen of Le Bernardin so we had a substitute Chef) watchful eye including Blanquette de Veau à l’Ancienne, Riz Pilaf (Veal Stew in a Cream Sauce with Rice Pilaf) and Poule au Pot, Sauce Raifort (Poached Chicken, Horseradish Cream Sauce). Both dishes required many steps to prepare but were relatively straight forward to complete. Chef seemed to like the flavor of our sauces and the presentation of our dishes.
Last night (our regular Chef was back), we made Jarret d’Agneau Braisé (Braised Lamb Shanks for our dinner) and Fricassée de Voilaille Printanière (Chicken Stewed with Spring Vegetables). These dishes required that we combine our two methods of cooking – concentration and extraction – this method is called mixte cooking. Mixte cooking is ideal for small cuts of meats that generally benefit from longer, slower cooking.
We seared the lamb shanks with some clarified butter on top of the stove until they had some nice color. Then we removed the shanks and added our mirepoix to give it some color. Herbs, red and white wine, tomatoes, and brown stock completed the cooking liquid. The lamb was returned to the pan, covered and allowed to cook for two hours at 325 degrees. The meat is done when it falls away from the bone. When our shanks were done we removed them from the cooking liquid and set them aside to keep warm while we prepared the sauce. Strain, degrease and reduce: the next steps to finish the sauce. The sauce consistency was excellent, unfortunately we salted it before reducing it making it very salty. Note to self: don’t season until the very end.
Our chicken was a little more complex, with turned vegetables (carrots & turnips), peas, string beans, and glazed pearl onions (the Printanière). During the second half of class most of us get a little punchy after working at our normal jobs all day long and being in the kitchen under demanding time constraints tends to wear us down a bit. Chef’s demeanor was focused and demanding and he was having none of our antics – thus creating a slightly more stressful situation when it came to completing our Fricassée. The dish in itself is a little tricky because you need to sear the chicken first but obtain no color to the skin, or to the pearl onions or the base sauce since the presentation should look as white as possible with bursts of color just from the spring vegetable garniture. At the end of the night, many of us felt a little defeated by our nemesis – the chicken.
Showing posts with label Salades Mixtes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Salades Mixtes. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Salades: Simples, Mixtes & Composées
When you think of salad – what comes to mind? Crisp romaine, spicy arugula (a/k/a rocket), bitter radicchio, classic endive, whimsical frisée, micro greens, delicate mâche, crimson red leaf, buttery bibb, peppery watercress, mild spinach, oh yes, let’s not forget staunch, stalwart iceberg too. There are many combinations and varieties of lettuces making for varied combinations to create the perfect salad. By basic definition a salad is any dish of raw or cold, cooked or uncooked foods that is usually dressed and seasoned.
Going into class last evening, I thought, salad, ok that’s easy. What’s there to know? I figured getting the vinaigrette right would be the most challenging task – little did I know how complicated a simple salad could be!
Salads can be classified in three categories:
Simple salads (Salades Simples) – are made with one or a few different lettuces and a basic vinaigrette. We made the vinaigrette, which consisted of vinegar, salt, Dijon mustard to help bind the dressing, black pepper and oil. The ratio to remember is 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil. This formula will never let you down.
Mixed salads (Salades Mixtes) is a mixture of several ingredients combined and seasoned together. We prepared a Macédoine de Legumes (cooked vegetable salad) with carrots, turnips, green beans and peas. The vegetables were incorporated with a Mayonnaise that each of us made. Chef demonstrated his way of plating the salad and asked the students to use their imagination and create our own interpretation. The result was a fanciful feast for the eyes, with over 20 salads presented to Chef with whimsy, detail and precision. I’ve included a photo of my own humble creation. Chef picked out 4 to 5 presentations that he liked and critiqued all the plates. Happily, Chef liked the simplicity and composition of my Macédoine de Legumes and I was grateful for another small victory.
Lastly, we have composed salads (Salades Composées) in this category we created a variation of a Salade Niçoise made with canned tuna, new potatoes, string beans, green pepper, tomatoes, niçoise olives, anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, bibb lettuce and some herbs for garnish. A composed salad features several ingredients, seasoned separately and presented together on one plate. The Salade Niçoise was challenging to complete – a lot of work went into creating one plate. From cutting and preparing vegetables, pitting olives, washing/drying lettuce, making vinaigrette, to perfectly cooking the eggs – my station was covered with bowls of ingredients. (Insiders tip: for perfect hard-boiled eggs start with cold water in a pot with the water covering the eggs, bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook for 10 to 11 minutes exactly. Don’t overcook the eggs or they will start to smell sulfurous and get that unattractive green ring around the yolks. Most importantly, when the eggs are pulled from the hot water after they have simmered place them in a bath of ice water to stop the cooking process.) The final plate was presented to Chef for final tasting, approval and critique.
Remember duck confit part deux? Our duck confit came out of the refrigerator; we wiped off the salt/herb mixture that facilitated as the cure to draw out excess moisture from the duck legs. The duck legs went into a large rondeau (round pot with two handles) was covered with rendered duck fat and brought up to a boil then simmered for our dinner. When the duck was finished cooking in the fat, we crisped the skin in a sauté pan then put that in a 400 degree oven for 15 minutes to get even more crispy and succulent.
Every night at school we take a half hour break around 8:30 pm to have family meal. Students in the higher levels learn to cook large quantities of food (an important skill to master) and serve the hungry lower level students. Last night, however, our class made our own delicious and simple meal, crispy & moist duck confit and a well-seasoned Salade Mixte – it was comfort food like I’ve never experienced before.
Going into class last evening, I thought, salad, ok that’s easy. What’s there to know? I figured getting the vinaigrette right would be the most challenging task – little did I know how complicated a simple salad could be!
Salads can be classified in three categories:
Simple salads (Salades Simples) – are made with one or a few different lettuces and a basic vinaigrette. We made the vinaigrette, which consisted of vinegar, salt, Dijon mustard to help bind the dressing, black pepper and oil. The ratio to remember is 1 part vinegar to 3 parts oil. This formula will never let you down.
Mixed salads (Salades Mixtes) is a mixture of several ingredients combined and seasoned together. We prepared a Macédoine de Legumes (cooked vegetable salad) with carrots, turnips, green beans and peas. The vegetables were incorporated with a Mayonnaise that each of us made. Chef demonstrated his way of plating the salad and asked the students to use their imagination and create our own interpretation. The result was a fanciful feast for the eyes, with over 20 salads presented to Chef with whimsy, detail and precision. I’ve included a photo of my own humble creation. Chef picked out 4 to 5 presentations that he liked and critiqued all the plates. Happily, Chef liked the simplicity and composition of my Macédoine de Legumes and I was grateful for another small victory.
Lastly, we have composed salads (Salades Composées) in this category we created a variation of a Salade Niçoise made with canned tuna, new potatoes, string beans, green pepper, tomatoes, niçoise olives, anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, bibb lettuce and some herbs for garnish. A composed salad features several ingredients, seasoned separately and presented together on one plate. The Salade Niçoise was challenging to complete – a lot of work went into creating one plate. From cutting and preparing vegetables, pitting olives, washing/drying lettuce, making vinaigrette, to perfectly cooking the eggs – my station was covered with bowls of ingredients. (Insiders tip: for perfect hard-boiled eggs start with cold water in a pot with the water covering the eggs, bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook for 10 to 11 minutes exactly. Don’t overcook the eggs or they will start to smell sulfurous and get that unattractive green ring around the yolks. Most importantly, when the eggs are pulled from the hot water after they have simmered place them in a bath of ice water to stop the cooking process.) The final plate was presented to Chef for final tasting, approval and critique.
Remember duck confit part deux? Our duck confit came out of the refrigerator; we wiped off the salt/herb mixture that facilitated as the cure to draw out excess moisture from the duck legs. The duck legs went into a large rondeau (round pot with two handles) was covered with rendered duck fat and brought up to a boil then simmered for our dinner. When the duck was finished cooking in the fat, we crisped the skin in a sauté pan then put that in a 400 degree oven for 15 minutes to get even more crispy and succulent.
Every night at school we take a half hour break around 8:30 pm to have family meal. Students in the higher levels learn to cook large quantities of food (an important skill to master) and serve the hungry lower level students. Last night, however, our class made our own delicious and simple meal, crispy & moist duck confit and a well-seasoned Salade Mixte – it was comfort food like I’ve never experienced before.
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